What Is Gold Vermeil and How Is It Different from Gold Plating?
Gold vermeil is 925 sterling silver covered with a thick layer of gold. In my jewelry, that layer is 3 microns of 24k gold. It's silver inside and has the warm color of gold outside, which is why it isn't the same as an ordinary gold-plated piece or a solid gold one. Here I explain how they differ, how long vermeil lasts and how to care for it.
Where the word comes from
Vermeil (pronounced ver-MAY) is a French word that meant bright red, vermilion. Between the 17th and 18th centuries it came to be used for fire-gilded silver, a technique in which gold was mixed with mercury and applied to silver. The mercury fumes were highly toxic for silversmiths, so the method was abandoned. Today the gold is deposited on the silver by electroplating, without mercury.
Vermeil, plating and solid gold: the differences
For a piece to be vermeil, two things must be true: the base is sterling silver and the gold layer is thick. The most widely cited standard is the one in the United States, where the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires at least 2.5 microns of gold (about 100 millionths of an inch) for a piece to be called vermeil. By contrast, it allows a layer of just 0.175 microns, fourteen times thinner, to be called "gold electroplate".
| Regular plating | Gold vermeil | Solid 18k gold | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inside | Brass, copper or another alloy | 925 sterling silver | 18k gold throughout the piece |
| Gold layer | Thin: sometimes just a few tenths of a micron | Thick: at least 2.5 microns. In my jewelry, 3 microns of 24k gold | No layer: it's gold inside and out |
| If the gold wears off | A low-value metal shows through | The silver shows through, and it can be replated | It doesn't lose its color |
| Price | Low | Mid-range | High |
The gold on my vermeil jewelry is 24k, that is, pure gold, which has a deeper yellow than 18k. If you want a piece for a lifetime, solid 18k gold doesn't lose its color, and you'll find it in the Solar Surface, Carina and Cassiopeia rings, the diamond stud earrings and the initials on the personalized cufflinks.
How long does gold vermeil last?
It depends mostly on friction. Earrings you wear every day rub more than a pendant you save for special occasions. Over the years, the gold can wear away where it rubs most and let the silver show.
When that happens, the piece isn't lost: write to me and we'll replate it at the workshop. That's one of the advantages of vermeil over regular plating, where there's nothing underneath worth saving.
Can it cause allergies?
Vermeil is sterling silver and gold. The most common cause of jewelry allergies is nickel, and some vermeil jewelry has it in a layer between the silver and the gold. Mine has no nickel anywhere, including the chains and the backs. If you're allergic to any other metal, write to me before you buy and I'll tell you what each piece contains.
How to care for your vermeil jewelry
- Put it on after perfume, lotion or hairspray.
- Take it off for the shower, the pool, the beach, sports and the sauna.
- Clean it with a soft, dry cloth. No silver cleaner, baking soda or polishing cloths: they take the gold off.
- Store it in its box, apart from other jewelry, in a dry place away from the bathroom.
With this care the gold lasts much longer, and the piece keeps its shine.
My gold vermeil jewelry
Almost my whole collection uses gold vermeil. Some pieces are entirely vermeil, such as the Polaris pendant, the Black Hole pendant or the Galaxy and Orbit earrings. Others combine silver and gold vermeil, such as the Moon cufflinks or the Solar Eclipse earrings, so they go just as well with gold jewelry as with silver.
You can see them all in pendants, earrings and cufflinks. And if you prefer gold throughout the piece, take a look at my 18k gold jewelry.
Frequently asked questions
Is gold vermeil real gold?
Yes. The layer is 24k gold, pure gold. Underneath there is sterling silver, so it isn't solid gold.
Can it get wet?
Ideally, take it off for the shower, the pool, the beach and sports, because water, chlorine and salt wear the gold down sooner. A splash won't ruin it; if it gets wet, dry it with a soft cloth.
Does it tarnish?
Gold doesn't tarnish. If over the years it wears away somewhere, the silver that shows through can tarnish.
Can it be replated?
Yes. Write to me and we'll do it at the workshop.
Which is better, vermeil or 18k gold?
It depends on what you're looking for. Vermeil has the color of gold at a more accessible price. 18k gold is for a lifetime and doesn't wear away.
If you'd like to see my gold vermeil pieces, here they are by type:
If you have any questions about a piece, write to me.
María del Pino